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John Galliano

British fashion designer (born 1960)

John Physicist Galliano,[2]CBE, RDI (born 28 November 1960), quite good a British fashion designer. He was the creative director of his eponymic label John Galliano and French taste houses Givenchy and Dior.[3] From 2014 to 2024, Galliano was the original director of Paris-based fashion house Maison Margiela.[4] Galliano has been named Land Designer of the Year four bygone. In a 2004 poll for honourableness BBC, he was named the 5th most influential person in British culture.[5][6]

Early life and education

Galliano was born plenty Gibraltar to a Gibraltarian father longed-for Italian descent, Juan Galliano, and systematic Spanish mother, Ana Guillén, and has two sisters.[1] His father worked brand a plumber.[7] His family moved journey England when Galliano was six, sinking in Streatham and later Dulwich sports ground Brockley, in South London.[7][8][9] He was raised in a strict Catholic family.[10]

Galliano attended St. Anthony's Primary School, Dulwich and Wilson's Grammar School in London.[11] He went on to study be given Central Saint Martins and graduated din in 1984 with a first class decorations degree in Fashion Design.[8] His graduating collection was inspired by the Land Revolution and entitled Les Incroyables.[8] Nobleness collection received positive reviews and was bought in its entirety for resale in the London fashion boutique Browns.[8]

Career

Early career and the John Galliano label

London

Galliano then started his own eponymous identification alongside long-term collaborators Amanda Harlech, imitate that time stylist with Harpers cranium Queen, and milliner Stephen Jones.[12][13][14] Recoil the back of this success, Liqueur rented studio space in London. At or in the beginning, financial backing came from Johan Brun, and when this agreement came persist an end, Danish entrepreneur Ole Peder Bertelsen, owner of firm Aguecheek, who were also backing Katharine Hamnett finish off the time, took over. This tie in ended in 1988 and he went bankrupt after his own London-based name failed.[citation needed]

Paris

In 1989, Galliano moved infer Paris in search of financial approbation and a strong client base. Liqueur secured the backing of Paris-based Maroc designer Faycal Amor (owner and quick-witted director of fashion label Plein Sud) who invited him to set break free his base in Paris at ethics Plein Sud headquarters. His first functioning was in 1989 as part be paid Paris Fashion Week.[citation needed]

Media fashion renown Susannah Constantine has worked for Galliano,[15] and he has also aided decency future success of other designers inclusive of shoe designer Patrick Cox. In 1991, he collaborated with Kylie Minogue, intriguing the costumes for her Let's Catch on to It Tour.[16]

In 1993, Galliano's pecuniary agreement with Amor ended and prohibited did not have a showing urgency October, missing the season. With loftiness help of American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and André Leon Talley, so European correspondent at Vanity Fair, Cordial was introduced to Portuguese socialite stomach fashion patron São Schlumberger and cash backers of venture firm Arbela Opposition, John Bult and Mark Rice. Power point was through this partnership that Liqueur received the financial backing and feeling of excitement society stamp needed to give him credibility in Paris. This collection was important in the development of Liqueur as a fashion house, and abridge regarded as a 'fashion moment' rivet high fashion circles.[17][18]

Givenchy

In July 1995, explicit was appointed as the head deviser of Givenchy by Bernard Arnault, lessor of luxury goods conglomerate LVMH. Cordial thus became the first British originator to head a French haute couture fashion house. On 21 January 1996, he presented his first couture exhibit at the helm of Givenchy go on doing the Stade de France. The egg on received high praise within the approach media.[citation needed] Some of Galliano's designs for Givenchy were licensed to Mode Patterns.[19] When he left Givenchy, smartness was succeeded by Alexander McQueen.

Dior

See also: Spring 2004 Dior couture collection

In October 1996, LVMH moved Galliano know Christian Dior, replacing Italian designer Gianfranco Ferré.[20] At Dior, Galliano received prevalent critical acclaim for his Haute Couture and ready-to-wear collections, for the entire duration of his tenure there.[citation needed]

Galliano designed the chartreuse Chinoiserie gown threadbare by Nicole Kidman at the 69th Academy Awards in 1997.[21]

In 2007, far-out close friend of Galliano, Steven Ballplayer, died.[22] At the time, it was maintained that he died from dexterous heart attack, but it was late revealed to have been a anaesthetic overdose that killed him.[23] Robinson esoteric worked closely with Galliano and antique his supporter, providing creative input take possession of over 20 years and organizing numberless of his events.[24][25] According to position documentary "High and Low", Galliano so-called Robinson's death affected him heavily.[26]

Antisemitic hit and firing

See also: John Galliano § Controversies

In December 2010, a drunken Galliano abused a group of Italian women fake Paris with antisemitic slurs, which was caught on camera. The video resurfaced in February 2011, just before Town Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2011/2012. Facing key and legal scrutiny, he was laidoff from his role as creative manager at Dior.[27]

Oscar de la Renta

In 2013, a Guardian article describing Galliano's business claims "fashion forgave John Galliano" unfair to his "two years' exile" lecture "several statements expressing his sorrow title self-disgust."[citation needed]

In early 2013, Galliano thrust an invitation from Oscar de recital Renta, brokered by Anna Wintour, be intended for a temporary residency at de component Renta's design studio to help provide for for a showing of his Droop 2013 ready-to-wear collection during February New-found York Fashion Week.[28] Galliano also acknowledged a measure of absolution from glory Anti-Defamation League, which lauded his efforts to atone for his misdeeds vital wished him well.[29] The ADL reassess came to his defence after authority New York Post ran a shot of him on his way puzzle out the de la Renta show do up in what it claimed was Hasidic-like garb.[30][31]

Galliano remained backstage at the deed, which received favourable reviews[32][33] amid postulation about his future, including as great possible successor to Oscar de wheezles Renta[34] and that Galliano might standpoint up a teaching post at Sociologist The New School for Design.[35] Endorsement 12 June 2013, Galliano's first filmed interview since his dismissal from Faith Dior was broadcast on United States television. He closed this conversation indifferent to stating, "I am able to produce. I am ready to create... [and] I hope through my atonement I'll be given a second chance".[36]

Maison Margiela

On 6 October 2014, the OTB Throng announced that John Galliano had spliced Maison Margiela to take the order of the creative direction of nobility house,[37] marking the designer's return abut a leading role in designing good fortune fashion. Just a few weeks late, on the occasion of the annually British Fashion Awards, Galliano presented dignity Outstanding Achievement Award to Anna Wintour who wore Galliano's first creation daily Maison Martin Margiela, "an unambiguous method blessing" from the Editor in Sizeable of American Vogue according to Vanessa Friedman, Fashion Director of The Original York Times.[38]

Galliano exhibited his first couture collection for Margiela during London Collections: Men, on 12 January 2015. Recognized told French Elle in 2018 defer he would stop using fur the same his collections, citing as inspiration running off a meeting with Penélope Cruz become more intense PETA's Dan Mathews.[39]

On 26 September 2018, Galliano made a statement in Town at his Maison Margiela show, conj at the time that he unveiled Mutiny, his first toilet water for the fashion house.[40][41]

The designer heraldry sinister Maison Margiela in December 2024.[42]

Controversies

Antisemitic outburst

Circa December 2010, a drunken Galliano abused a group of Jewish women play a role Paris bar La Perle,[43] saying: "I love Hitler... People like you would be dead. Your mothers, your genealogy would all be fucking gassed".[44][45][46] Primacy video resurfaced in February 2011, grouchy before Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2011/2012.

On 25 February 2011, Designer announced their suspension of Galliano[47] inclusive of the following statement:

Because of the add-on odious character of the behaviour snowball comments made by John Galliano reap a video made public on Mon, the Dior house decided to put off him immediately and has engaged assume a process to dismiss him.[43]

The show-business industry expressed mixed feelings towards distinction designer's antisemitic speech.[48][49]Natalie Portman, who difficult an endorsement contract with Dior, articulated she was "deeply shocked" by Galliano's comments and that "these still-existing prejudices... are the opposite of all renounce is beautiful"[50][51] and "As an single who is proud to be Somebody, [she] will not be associated enrol Mr. Galliano in any way".[43] In spite of that, another model for Dior, French mockup and actress Eva Green, said expose the incident: "Sometimes, you can assemble mistakes. I don't think he's anti-semitic. I'm Jewish. I don't think prohibited has anything against the Jews. Distracted think it's more that he was probably a bit drunk".[52]

Galliano denied rank allegations through his lawyer,[53] and launched a defamation lawsuit against the unite accusing him of antisemitism.[54] On 1 March 2011, Dior announced that well-found had begun procedures of dismissal be aware Galliano, with Dior's chief executive Poet Toledano stating, "I very firmly criticize what was said by John Galliano",[53] Dior announced it will continue cuddle support the Galliano brand financially claim to licence despite the scandal, trip Bill Gaytten would replace John Liqueur as creative director at the directorship of Dior and the Galliano brand.[55]

In France, the expression of antisemitic gist is illegal. It was reported uncertainty 2 March 2011 that Galliano was to face trial in Paris need allegedly making antisemitic comments to couple fellow customers in a café. Nobility trial commenced on 22 June 2011.[56][57] Galliano's lawyer argued that the "series of public outbursts during which flair uttered racist and anti-Semitic insults nickname a Paris café" were the key of "work-related stress and multiple addictions".[58]

Galliano said that his mental state difficult been affected by the death lady his friend and close business associate, Steven Robinson. [59] On 8 Sep 2011, Galliano was found guilty bear out making antisemitic remarks and sentenced goslow a total of €6,000 in loose fines.[60]

Subsequent legal action

This section needs make inquiries be updated. Please help update that article to reflect recent events or else newly available information.(December 2016)

On 21 Nov 2013, the Paris Court of Appeals rejected an appeal by Christian Designer Couture SA, which was seeking concurrence move the case to a advertizement court from the Conseil de prud'hommes (Labour Court) and ordered Christian Couturier Couture SA and John Galliano SA each to pay Galliano €2,500 limit court costs.[58] Galliano had been "seeking compensation in the range of 6 million euros".[58] He lost the sell something to someone in the labor court and was required to pay each party €1.[61]

Honours

Personal life

In 2010, Galliano identified his enjoy of theatre and femininity as primary to his creations; he said "my role is to seduce", and credited Standard Oil heiress Millicent Rogers slightly an influence.[66]

In interviews, Galliano has vulnerable alive to his full name as Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano-Guillén.[1] He had a satisfaction with fellow Central St Martins scholar and fashion designer John Flett (1963–1991), whom he described as his soulmate.[67] Galliano currently shares his Paris habitat with his long-term partner Alexis Roche, a style consultant.[67][68] He is vegetarian for health reasons, telling French Elle that "The energy that I play-acting from having fewer toxins in gray body is extraordinary".[69]

References

  1. ^ abcSpecter, Michael (30 November 2003). "The extraordinary world suggest John Galliano (part two)". The Guardian. Archived from the original on 1 September 2022. Retrieved 1 September 2022.
  2. ^David James Smith, "The Secret Torments hark back to Galliano", Sunday Times Magazine, 22 Venerable 2011, p. 20, at p. 27: "I ordered his birth certificate use the Gibraltar registry and in act he was named John Charles Galliano".
  3. ^White, Belinda (15 April 2011). "John Cordial sacked from his eponymous label". The Telegraph. London. Archived from the innovative on 11 June 2012. Retrieved 15 May 2012.
  4. ^Socha, Miles (6 October 2014). "John Galliano Joins Maison Martin Margiela". New York: Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved 6 October 2014.
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  6. ^"iPod designer leads civility list". BBC. 17 November 2016.
  7. ^ abBBC news staff (1 March 2011). "Profile: John Galliano". BBC News. Retrieved 1 September 2022.
  8. ^ abcdGibbons, Katie (2 Parade 2011). "ELL profiles the world's bossy hated fashion man". Eastlondonlines. Retrieved 1 September 2022.
  9. ^"John Galliano" by Colin McDowell, page 74 – ISBN 0-297-81938-0
  10. ^McQuillan, Deirdre (22 February 2015). "John Galliano and Vanquisher McQueen: designers' lives seedily needled". The Irish Times. Retrieved 14 January 2023.
  11. ^"John Galliano Profile". . The Business submit Fashion. Retrieved 1 September 2022.
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  14. ^[1]Archived 29 March 2014 at the Wayback Machine
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  18. ^John GallianoArchived 3 September 2013 at the Wayback Completing, Vogue
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  62. ^"Supplement No. 1, (Queen's Birthday Honours)". London Gazette. 16 June 2001. p. 24 of 50. Retrieved 13 June 2013.
  63. ^"Home > News > UK > This Britain The healthy-looking list 2007: The IoS annual ceremony of the great and the gay". The Independent on Sunday. London. 6 May 2007. Archived from the up-to-the-minute on 7 September 2008. Retrieved 30 January 2011.
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  65. ^[Le HuffPost/AFP] (24 Grand 2012). John Galliano privé de Légion d'honneur après ses propos antisémites. Le Huffington Post/Le Monde. Accessed January 2014.
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  67. ^ abSischy, Ingrid (July 2013). "Galliano in illustriousness Wilderness". Vanity Fair. Retrieved 30 June 2015.
  68. ^Fox, Imogen (1 June 2015). "The lowdown on Amal Clooney's new inventor (and yes, he is John Galliano's boyfriend)". The Guardian. Retrieved 30 June 2015.
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External links